Karakoram Range
Mountain Ranges
Strenuous
Difficulty Level
June – September
Seasons
Climbing the “Forbidden” Spires: Saltoro and Kondus Valley Expeditions
Rediscover the Granite Giants of the Eastern Karakoram
For decades, the high-altitude wonders of the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys were shrouded in silence. Once closed due to the Siachen Glacier conflict, these valleys are now the final frontier for untouched mountaineering in Baltistan.
“Villagers in the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys no longer see expeditions… these eastern valleys have some of the finest clean granite towers in Baltistan. The towers above these ascents remain for another generation of climbers.” — John Mock (Written during the area’s closure before 2000).
Since the region reopened, our team has led explorations, guiding elite climbing groups through these once-restricted corridors. Today, that “future generation” has arrived, and the granite cathedrals of the East are open for ascent. The region is a dense cluster of 7,000-meter peaks and technical pinnacles that offer world-class challenges for serious alpinists. Key summits include:
- Saltoro Kangri I (7,742m): The highest peak in the Saltoro Range.
- Saltoro Kangri II (7,705m): A massive, snow-clad sentinel.
- Sherpi Kangri I & II (7,380m & 7,100m): Technical peaks requiring expert-level navigation.
Beyond these primary giants, the geography offers access to the iconic Link Sar (7,041m), K6 (7,281m), K7 (6,934m), and the legendary twin peaks of Chogolisa (7,668m). 6,000m
For those seeking the pure essence of mounFor those seeking the essence of mountaineering without the burden of high-altitude permits, this area is a goldmine. Our four-week Alpine Style program focuses on the “nameless” towers: they remain unclimbed and unnamed, waiting for pioneers to claim their summits.
- Unrivaled Access: Unlike the long approaches of the Central Karakoram, many of these sub-6,000m peaks are accessible from the roadside, allowing for more climbing time and less transit. d-renowned among big-wall climbers for its “clean” rock—offering firm, reliable holds on sheer vertical faces.
27-Day Forbidden Valleys & Kebri Glacier Expedition
First Ascents & Alpine Style Climbing in the Eastern Karakoram
This 27-day program is for mountaineers seeking first ascents on unclimbed peaks below 6,500m. Centered around remote Khorkondo village and the pristine Kebri Glacier, the itinerary offers access to clean granite and virgin summits.
Phase 1: Gateway to the Karakoram
- Day 01: Arrival in Islamabad – Transfer to hotel; equipment check and team orientation.
- Day 02: Skardu Flight or Karakoram Highway (Chilas) – Take a mountain flight to Skardu or drive along the Indus River via the KKH.
- Day 03: Skardu Preparation & Official Briefing – Acquire final gear and attend the mandatory briefing at the Ministry of Tourism Office, Skardu.
- Day 04: 4×4 Jeep Drive to Khorkondo – Drive into the heart of the eastern valleys and establish the first campsite.
Phase 2: Unclimbed Peaks of Khorkondo
- Day 05: Trek to Khorkondo Basecamp Day 05: Trek to Khorkondo Basecamp – Approach the base of nameless towers and granite spires.ing (Sub-6,500m) – Five full days dedicated to alpine-style climbing. Target unclimbed rock and ice pinnacles in a region rarely visited by Western expeditions.
- Day 11: Return to Khorkondo – Descend Day 11: Return to Khorkondo – Descend to the village and prepare for the next glacial phase.
- Day 12: Drive to Kebri Glacier (CamDay 12: Drive to Kebri Glacier (Camp I) – Travel to the Kebri Glacier system, a world-class destination for high-altitude big wall climbing. Activities – Ten days of sustained climbing. This window allows for technical pushes on the massive granite walls and summits flanking the Kebri Glacier.
Phase 4: Journey Home
- Day 23: Return Drive to Skardu – Afternoon debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism to finalize expedition records.
- Day 24: Skardu to Islamabad/Chilas – Begin the journey back to the capital.
- Day 25: Continued Travel to Islamabad – Flight arrival or road transit from Chilas.
- Day 26: Contingency / Islamabad Sightseeing – A free day to explore the capital or account for weather-related flight delays.
- Day 27: International Departure – Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your onward destination.
Inclusions: Full-Service Expedition Package
Logistics & Transport
- Domestic Travel: Round-trip Islamabad–Skardu flights, with road transport via Chilas or Besham if flights are canceled.
- Ground Operations: All airport transfers and 4×4 Jeep transport between Skardu and Askole or Hushe.
- Luggage Allowance: 75 kg each way inward; 50 kg per person return.
Accommodation & Base Camp Infrastructure
- City Stays: Stay 3 nights in Islamabad (air-conditioned rooms) and 3 nights in Skardu (Bed & Breakfast).
- Trek & Camp Life: Full-board meals provided during the trek; individual D-4 style tents with mattresses provided at Base Camp.
- Camp Facilities: Mess, kitchen, toilet, and shower tents with tables, chairs, and fuel supplied.
Support Crew
- Expedition Staff: Wages, insurance, food, and equipment covered for Sirdar, Cook, Assistant Cook, and Porters.
- Liaison Officer (LO): LO’s salary, insurance, transport, and equipment are fully covered.
Permits & Administration
- Government Fees: Include the official Peak Permit and Central Karakoram National Park (CKNP) fees.
- Paperwork & Taxes: Assistance and coverage for all required permits, bridge, and road taxes.
- Official Briefings: Mandatory Ministry of Tourism briefing and debriefing arranged.
- Certification: Alpine Club of Pakistan certificate upon successful summit.
Exclusions: Out-of-Pocket Expenses
Technical Gear & High-Altitude Support
- Technical Equipment: Personal climbing gear, HAPs, and high-altitude rations not included.
Personal Kit & Expenses
- Personal Gear: Sleeping bags, rucksacks, clothing, and footwear are not included.
- Incidental Expenses: Tips, laundry, satellite communication, and extra beverages not included.
Meals in Cities
- City Dining: Lunches and dinners in Islamabad and Skardu are excluded (only breakfast is included during the Skardu stay).
Safety & Insurance
- Rescue Insurance: Mandatory helicopter rescue insurance with minimum coverage of $15,000.
The K2 Base Camp trek is extremely strenuous and challenging. It is considered one of the most demanding high-altitude treks in the world, significantly harder than the Everest Base Camp trek.
The difficulty comes from four main factors:
- Duration: The trek is long, typically 14-16 days of continuous walking (out of a 21-23 day total itinerary).
- Altitude: You will spend many consecutive nights sleeping above 4,000 meters (13,100 ft) and trek as high as 5,150m (Concordia) and 5,650m (Gondogoro La, if included).
- Terrain: This is not a developed trail. For most of the trek, you will be walking on the uneven, rocky, and unstable glacial moraine of the Baltoro Glacier. It requires constant focus and strong ankles.
- Daily Distance: You will be walking for 6-8 hours on most days, covering significant distances in a remote environment.
Fitness Requirements: You do not need to be a technical mountaineer, but you must be in excellent cardiovascular shape and have high stamina.
- Recommendation: You should be comfortable hiking for 6-8 hours with a 5-7kg daypack for several days in a row.
- Training Plan: We recommend a dedicated training program for at least 3-4 months before your trek. This should include:
- Cardio: 3-4 times a week (running, cycling, swimming, or incline walking).
- Strength: 2 times a week (focus on legs and core with squats, lunges, and step-ups).
- Stamina: At least one long-distance hike (6+ hours) per week with a weighted pack.
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